I first visited Thailand at the end of the Seventies when I was invited
to Pattaya Beach by Thai Airways to hear about plans to introduce Boeing 747 jets on the London to Bangkok route.
Around the hotel grounds were elephants decked out in Thai Airways livery: jumbos advertising jumbo jets.
It was the first time I had seen elephants in their natural environment!
These days when people want to reach a tropical Thai beach they get on a plane for a short hop to Koh Samui or Phuket.
In those days, it took a two-hour drive south from Bangkok to Pattaya (the drive was down a road so
bad it made the B4326 look like the M1). This was my first experience of the Far East and probably as good an introduction as you could hope for.
Chilling out: Relaxation has replaced all-night Full Moon parties and now it's
all about reading on the beach
By 1979, Pattaya should no longer have been a major rest and relaxation) destination for US forces serving in Vietnam, as the war had ended
four years previously.
But it would have been hard to guess this from the riotous way that US servicemen on leave were enjoying Pattaya Beach's extraordinary, edgy nightlife; the characteristic excesses of Thai entertainment were firmly established here.
It was the place where The Beach's author, Alex Garland, would have been in seventh heaven.
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I'm not clear why there was such a large US presence in Thailand at
the end of the Seventies but the bar and club owners were clearly grateful.
Away from the strip, hotel developers were building resort hotels which at
this time seemed to serve a market of affluent Parisians.
Local Traditional boats by Bangtao beach (above) in Phuket.
The beach is also home to the chic Cassia hotel
They have moved on but Pattaya remains a fun-loving place: the
Costa del Sol of South East Asia. But there are interesting developments east of Pattaya,
along the coast towards the border with Cambodia.
Typical of the different style is Centara Q Resort Rayong (centara hotelsresorts.com), a
boutique resort set on quiet Laem Mae Phim beach on the
eastern coast of the Gulf of Thailand.
Here there are 41 modern rooms in a resort designed to provide
an intimate, beachfront getaway three hours'
drive from Bangkok. Rooms cost from £58 per night.
A number of other less well known Thai places are also
beginning to be discovered by UK travellers, including Khanom, Koh Kood
and Koh Phangan.
Koh Phangan is one of the many Thai resorts that has completed the journey from backpacker
hang-out to upmarket resort.
Pattaya Beach (above) in Ko Lipe was known for its edgy night
life. But while it remains a fun-loving place, there are
now some interesting developments nearby
Once known as the ultimate party destination thanks to
its hedonistic scene and guest appearance in The Beach,
the island has emerged as stylish and elegant.
The Anantara Rasananda on Koh Phangan is one of the Thai properties chosen by the eclectic Mr & Mrs Smith website, which
makes the link between Koh Phangan's boisterous past and
its more mellow present: ‘For many guests it's not the first time they have
been to Koh Phangan... Now happily settled in their 30s, often with kids in tow, the style-savvy holidaymakers at this luxury
beach resort had their initial taste of this idyllic
Gulf of Thailand isle during the Full Moon parties of their adventurous 20s.'
Those hot, heady affairs still take place on Haad Rin beach, 30 minutes from
the hotel, but now many people seek this more
refined island option, says Mr & Mrs Smith: ‘At Anantara, champagne replaces buckets of vodka-Red Bull; king-size beds beat swags on the
sand; and yoga and spa sessions offer a natural high.'
Booked through Mr & Mrs Smith, rooms at the Anantara cost from £287 per night.
Full moon parties, like the one on Haad Rin beach in Koh
Phangan, were all the rage for those in their
20s and still take place today
When the full-moon parties aren't in full-swing, Haad Rin Beach
on Koh Phangan looks the picture of paradise
If you're looking for a more affordable Thai beach break, the Cassia Phuket (cassia.com) is offering a 30 per cent discount, meaning prices start at
£48 a night.
This package includes breakfast and is valid for a minimum
two-night stay until May 31.
Cassia is on the unspoilt Bangtao Beach. Those looking
to relax can choose to take a dip in the chic infinity pool or indulge in a massage and pampering
session at the Chill Chill Spa.
At Market 23 Cafe, guests can socialise over a cup of coffee and takeaway snacks
and meals including fresh fruit juices, daily smoothies, organic pro-biotic yogurt, light sandwiches, freshly prepared salads, and savoury and sweet
pies.
Alternatively, guests can buy fresh ingredients
to recreate their favourite dishes in their apartment.
You can also order from local restaurants or take away directly from street vendors.
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